I went out to move my queen frame into a cell finisher and they had uncharged all of the queen cells, and extended the brood comb over the area. Here’s a before & after (May 10 on top and May 13 below). I tried to get them about the same size.
There’s also an egg in the fifth cup over, that once had a well-provisioned larva. I suspect her neighbor is provisioning as well:
I knocked off the brood comb and moved the frame to the finisher anyway (they need something to do to give them purpose), and put a new queen frame into this nuc. Apparently once I see good larvae I need to pull the frame immediately.
This material is based upon work supported by the National Institute of Food and Agriculture, U.S. Department of Agriculture, through the Northeast Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education program under subaward number FNE24-102. Any opinions, findings, conclusions, or recommendations expressed in this publication are those of the author(s) and do not necessarily reflect the view of the U.S. Department of Agriculture.
The Northeast Sustainable Agriculture Research & Education (SARE) program awarded HoneyApple Hill a grant for the 2024-2025 beekeeping seasons. Improving Apis mellifera Breeding Quality by Swarm Impulse Manipulation will explore the possibility of manipulating honey bee colonies such that the queen lays eggs directly into queen cups.
What inspired this line of research is the one-two impact of eggs that are laid directly into queen cups by the queen are larger than eggs laid in worker cells. These eggs produce bigger queens with more ovaioles (first impact). The maternal effect shows that larger queens make larger workers (second impact). Larger workers have the downstream effects of healthier hives.
In a nutshell, I will manipulate the following for this project:
Create swarming conditions in single, 8-frame deeps and nuc boxes.
Confine the queen to a single frame that has empty queen cups on it of three types: traditional JZBZ cups (inner diameter 8.5mm), 3D printed cups (ID 9mm), hand-dipped wax cups (ID 9.5mm). The frames will be entirely queen cups (ideal for commercial breeding), or queen cups mixed with worker cell comb that mimicking natural swarm situations.
Identify conditions that encourage (or discourage) the queen laying in queen cups. Workers may ultimately dictate when/if a queen cell is charged. I expect to learn more about this during the course of this project.
If the queen lays directly into queen cups, test how long the colony can maintain this condition to enumerate how many queen cells can be generated from one colony.
Determine the monthly viability of a successful method from May through August.
Beekeepers swear by swarm queens when talking about “queen quality”. My ultimate goal is to find a commercially-viable process for swarm queen production.
This material is based upon work supported by the National Institute of Food and Agriculture, U.S. Department of Agriculture, through the Northeast Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education program under subaward number FNE24-102. Any opinions, findings, conclusions, or recommendations expressed in this publication are those of the author(s) and do not necessarily reflect the view of the U.S. Department of Agriculture.
I’ve taken photos on and off since June, when I started my vegetation management strategy to address robbing issues. The drought affected my trial; I cut back the goldenrod just prior, so the swaths looked like this on October 11: Nary a bloom in sight where I wanted a river of flowers. I will have to try next year, and hope the weather cooperates this time.
Interestingly, I cut a strip of knotweed at the same time as I cut the first goldenrod. The regrown knotweed bloomed quite quickly after the untouched stand. It lasted a little longer, and wasn’t as prolific (to be expected), but the drought didn’t appear to hinder it much (does anything hinder this plant?).
So goldenrod cuts are still a question mark (and clearly highly depending on environment) but knotweed has potential.
Fortunately, this fall cooled down quicker than last year, and I put cozies on my hives toward the end of September. Between the cozies sealing the hives and the lower temps I’ve had much less robbing this fall.
In the fall of 2021 I experienced my worst robbing year ever. The goldenrod and knotweed came and went, the bees packed in the honey, the asters made their feeble debut. Normally cold temperatures quickly follow, a cue that keeps the bees tucked in tight and minding their own business.
Recently (and by that I mean the last two or three years), those feeble asters signal something else; a fall dearth with no brood and warm weather. With no brood to tend, and temperatures good for flying, all that’s left is foraging — right in each others’ hives. Feeding sugar syrup didn’t really help. Who’d want sugar water when there’s all this delicious honey to be had for the taking?
To address this, I’m testing some goldenrod management. If mowed, goldenrod will regrow and blossom, but out of step with the natural crop. Thus begins my experiment:
The first cut, made June 6. About 12 feet wide and at about 6 inches off the ground. I’d like to say it follows the apiary fence, but I simply didn’t walk straight.The first cut a week later. I started a second cut to the right.The second cut, June 14, has the same dimensions and follows the general path of the first.
I’ll do one more cut next week. If this works, this first cut will bloom after the natural goldenrod dies off, the second a week later, and then the third. I’ll track which cut gives the most growth and flowers, if I cut too early or too late, and search for a sweet spot to prolong my goldenrod bloom.
The other step I’ll try is to seed some Canada goldenrod, a variety that blooms later than the tall goldenrod common to my field.
The real metric will be: does this affect the robbing frenzy?
Not all goldenrod produces nectar for bees. If you’re interested in identifying goldenrod species in your forage area try this field guide (pdf)